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Will past the crux on Gallileo (E1) |
Bloodrush, a route first climbed by Andy Cave is an E6 which climbs an astounding double-areted fin about two feet wide. Situated above a 8m drop it gives fairly wild exposure from the first move, and brilliant climbing up the twin aretes to summit the jutting prow.
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Toprope on Bloodrush, Shining Clough |
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Bloodrush |
After a bit of heather-bashing on the steep walk in I managed to find the path which leads up to the crag, which boasts an impressive array of tall buttresses and rippled gritstone walls. As luck would have it I bumped into a couple of friends who arrived just after me, a bit of a coincidence as I certainly wasn't expected to see anybody else in such a remote setting. Anyway, after a quick toprope Will gave me a belay on Bloorush which is fantastic. Will and Amy did the classic Pisa Superdirect (HVS) and Gallileo (E1) which both look really good, taking big crack lines up a tall tower, and must be some of the longer routes on grit.
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Leading Bloodrush - should have moved the ab rope out of shot really! |
I think the moorland crags provide some of the best climbing on grit. The solitude of the moors, the long walk-ins and fickle conditions just add to sense of achievement. The rock at Shining Clough reminded me of Thorn Crag, or Simon's Seat, or Great Wolfrey - all crags that the budding grit esoterica lover should visit. Next on the list - perhaps Black Mountain Collage at Ravenstones - it certainly looks like it has the potential to provide a full-on 'moors' experience...
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Will and Amy enjoying Pisa Superdirect |
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Over the moors... |