Sunday 5 May 2013

Over The Moors - Bloodrush...

So I've got exams next week, but the arrival of spring, and the fact that I've not been on rock for a couple of weeks was enough of an excuse to  go and explore some moorland gritstone.  Shining Clough in Longdendale, just above the Woodhead Pass gets an intriguing introduction in the new Moorland Grit guide with tales of ghosts, and a photo of what is possibly the best looking route on grit....

Will past the crux on Gallileo (E1)


Bloodrush, a route first climbed by Andy Cave is an E6 which climbs an astounding double-areted fin about two feet wide.  Situated above a 8m drop it gives fairly wild exposure from the first move, and brilliant climbing up the twin aretes to summit the jutting prow.

Toprope on Bloodrush, Shining Clough

Bloodrush


After a bit of heather-bashing on the steep walk in I managed to find the path which leads up to the crag, which boasts an impressive array of tall buttresses and rippled gritstone walls.  As luck would have it I bumped into a couple of friends who arrived just after me, a bit of a coincidence as I certainly wasn't expected to see anybody else in such a remote setting.  Anyway, after a quick toprope Will gave me a belay on Bloorush which is fantastic.  Will and Amy did the classic Pisa Superdirect (HVS) and Gallileo (E1) which both look really good, taking  big crack lines up a tall tower, and must be some of the longer routes on grit.




Leading Bloodrush - should have moved the ab rope out of shot really!



I think the moorland crags provide some of the best climbing on grit.  The solitude of the moors, the long walk-ins and fickle conditions just add to sense of achievement.  The rock at Shining Clough reminded me of Thorn Crag, or Simon's Seat, or Great Wolfrey - all crags that the budding grit esoterica lover should visit.  Next on the list - perhaps Black Mountain Collage at Ravenstones - it certainly looks like it has the potential to provide a full-on 'moors' experience...

Will and Amy enjoying Pisa Superdirect

Over the moors...


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